Armscyes


Photo Credit Bill Burlingham

Orphaned Fragments: the dissection of particular parts where two things intersect.

This is a series of stitched drawings that I'm developing from my understanding of the armhole as a dressmaker.  It is my closer investigation of the technique of sewing a set-in sleeve, and on the word "armscye" itself.  I was fooled by the word for the first decade of my dressmaking as I was mastering the technique, because most dressmakers refer to and pronounce the opening as "arm's eye."

I'm making these drawings from deconstructed fragments of the armhole, with attachments to other parts pulled from seam allowances.  My drawing process provides a way for me to consider both the construction technique and the devolving of the word "armscye" from etymological fragments.  The dictionary does not provide a clear trace of meaning, nor is it clear that these are drawings of the armhole.

A set in sleeve looks effortlessly beautiful on the outside--a curved arch that holds space for the arm's mobility--however the inside reveals the awkward, imperfect hand work needed to ease the relationship between the sleeve and the armhole.  I'm most interested in these imperfections found on the inside that trace the work of the human hand. I'm purposely distorting the standard pattern technique to balance the arm hole, repeating the compositional format with different results.

Armscye 1 and 2 for ARTwork 6
January 19 - February 1, 2013

A Slip of the Handling

  Photo Credit Day Still 


A Slip of the Handling is a table top styling session that animates the thoughts, gestures, and feelings that go into my design process for RedShift.

Revisiting the designed objects, the table top becomes a playground where materials come within reach of hand and eye again, and the things made go through a blurry process of valuation.  How might the object’s use and value change post-production?

For me the photo session serves as a bartering act between the photographer/camera and myself.  While the camera creates a state of fixation on the object, I rejuvenate my design impulses to transform the materials.  In this mediating session, the hand becomes an instrument of thought and prop for the product of labor, and maker becomes partner in the fetishism of the object.

RedShift for db12, Volume 2
Second-hand Skins
Photo Credit Day Still



Loop Value


Loop Value: The How Much Does It Cost? Shop is a quasi pop-up store that reveals the far reaching impact our habits of consumption have on the world around us.  Visual displays act as educational tools to raise awareness and offer options to remediate these habits.  For this exhibit I created for RedShift a series of dresses covered in mass market slogans, combining details from a number of thrift store garments.

Exhibit designed by Jason Pickleman 
Photos by Day Still

Records of Use



photo credit Nicole Radja-Time out Chicago

Records of Use
16'x 9'x 3'

Records of Use is a site specific wall installation created for the exhibit Dimensional Lines: Art + Dress at the Evanston Art Center.  Seeking to reveal and elevate the physical evidence of both maker and wearer found between the layers of worn garments, I've developed a vocabulary of line from the by-products of my dressmaking process.  Relating these filaments to the built environment of the exhibit site, I've drawn a grid overlay on the surface of the existing drywall facade at the northern end of the gallery space.  Using the markings of former installations as a compositional device, the remnants become interwoven with the wall.  Deconstructed pattern pieces, pulled seams, and garment parts represent a bodily occupation on the surface of the facade. The grid drawing continues to the backside of the wall to highlight the space between it and the original paneling, revealing the former uses of the historical building.  Here I’ve stitched directly into the surface to leave a lasting record of my own occupation of the site.

(see page 2 of article)

Review: Dimensional Lines: Art + Dress

Frock Talk: Wr)apping

 
Holding a place where the clusters of activity and records of ruptures can rest.

See Frock Talk photos here






Sound piece by artist Alex Inglizain. See below for more information.

Frock Talk at ESS

photo credit: David Ettinger

A RedShift Production at Experimental Sound Studio for In/Ex/Change
Friday July 22nd, 9am-5pm

ArtStays 9 International Festival of Contemporary Art
Ptuy, Slovenia

In/Ex/Change is an exhibit structured on a respondent network of participation that opens up new pathways for interaction between art organizer, maker, and viewer.  Using fabric as a connective device and social metaphor for this exhibit,  I'm looking at the edges of internal cuts in cloth, areas intentionally perforated, and ruptures that occur as a function of wear and use, as opportunities to create connections socially and materially.   I've made a series of samples and drawings for the exhibit site in Ptuy, Slovenia (a former prison),  inventing a correspondent event here in Chicago called Frock Talk to animate some of the ideas embedded in the art work.

Locating my design practice at Experimental Sound Studio for Frock Talk, I'm offering my alteration and mending services throughout the day to visitors and participants, inviting artists from all disciplines to come and contribute to what I see as a chorus of activities and surfaces. This is a bring your own content event drawing from ruptures, connections, and binding processes where all forms of media and expression are welcome.

The day will unfold as follows...

We'll have a live stream costume alteration with Damjana Mlinaric from Muzikafe in Ptuy, Slovenia for Hole, Lynn Book and Katharina Klement's opera without opera.

Sound artist Alex Inglizain will create an audio response to the production activity by recording the amplified physical movement of hands, needles, scissors, and threads; processing repetitive sounds by use of audio feedback to represent the invariant outcomes of repetitive labor .  The resulting sound scape with video footage and photo documentation from the event will be transmitted to the exhibit site in Ptuy, Slovenia.

Artist Mark Augustine will create urban weaves from three Google site studies.

12:30  ... We'll have a potluck lunch in the garden.

I'll have a make your own party hat table.

Performer Dan Mohr will wrap up the day leading us in Georgian labor songs.

RedShift mending and alteration services will be offered throughout the day.
All proceeds to benefit ESS

Foldings

 220 South Wabash, Chicago

Soft forms in hard places, cloth as kinetic surface, and the body as architectural facade are recurring themes in my work with interdisciplinary artist and performer Erica Mott.  This image from May 2010 is our first public study for Winged Victory of Samothrace.  Performing in an empty Wabash storefront for Chicago's Pop Up Art Loop, I draped Erica in real time before a small audience as we discussed notions of victory and depictions of the female form in relation to war.  Erica became a live replication of the iconic Greek statue, modeled as if taken from the prow of a ship. 

I continue my collaboration with Erica Mott this Summer as costume designer on her performance The Victory Project.  Developing costumes in close relation to her choreographic process, I'm attending rehearsals at St Luke's Church in Chicago to observe the energetic techniques, physical structures, and improvised sketches composed with the five dancers who make up her cast.  There's continual discussion in the studio on bodily containment and expansion, energetic and physical arrivals, and finding the voice at landing.

The Victory Project premieres July, August, and September of 2011 in Chicago.

 Our second public study for Winged Victory.
July 2010, Dearborn Street, Chicago
all photos by Day Still

(S)watch Sets

Dotted (S)watch Set
cotton fabric and thread
5 x 7 " each

This is a series of works in cloth created by the removal of threads from the length and cross of woven fabric.  Similar to cut-work embroidery, the gesture is one of removal but the action is additive, pulling threads from the surface of the cloth, folding the filaments to the back of the surface.  The threads remain connected to the framework of the fabric, but the parallel lines of the woven surface are loosened, providing a window into the underlying structure of the cloth. 

Mondrian Dress-YSL/SL

                                       
I created this dress for Stephen Lapthisophon's exhibit "Spelling Lessons" at Conduit Gallery.  It is a play on YSL's day dress from 1965 and a study of Mondrian's grid paintings from 1921.  In these early grid paintings Mondrian left many of the black lines open from the edge of the canvas.  In my version I left the sides of the dress unfinished and open, but connected by an area of the black grid. 



RedShift Mondrian Dress
acrylic on canvas, with black duck tape and found cotton twill ribbon
37" x 22"

Standing In

"I Stand Corrected" is a video by my studio mate Jereon Nelemans.  He asked me to "stand in" for this recording as a viewer placed off to the side. We're both interested in playing with formal design to create open grids, looking at the work of Mondrian, and studying the Fibonacci Series.

Spoke, Chicago
December 2010